mookie99

After the last post I received some really great and well thought out comments from Falstaff, JJ, Acorn, CC and Don. I really appreciate the feedback. If you have some time be sure to read through their replies HERE. Real good stuff.

Here are some of the questions I asked and some snippets from their replies…

What do you think are some of the biggest differences between playing NLHE tournaments and cash games ?

• Falstaff…The blinds never increase in a cash game, and you can always reach back into your pocket. That sounds super-simple and obvious, until you think about how that can change your game.
• JJ…The dynamics of cash games is different. You don’t have to worry about blinds. You don’t tighten up during situations like hand-for-hand or bubbles. Every hand is a new hand. Getting to play each hand fresh is a lot different.
• Acorn…I would add table selection as a crucial difference and also be aware that while you can put someone to the test ( all in)in a cash game they can always reload and are more likely to call than in an MTT where their tourney life is on the line.
• CC…Set farmers, beaver trappers, and ultra-tight multi-tablers are more prevalent than in tourneys. With escalating blinds, you can only do so much. Set farmers, of course, are those who basically just look for flopped sets to double up, and beaver trappers are those who play gapped connectors and junk waiting to trap solid players.

What adjustments should a “tourney” player make before playing regularly in a cash game ?

• JJ…I think a cash game player needs to see a few more flops. 75s, T9o, etc. So long as position is respected in making the decision to play sub-obtimal cards. Speculation can go a long way, but tread carefully. And don’t open-limp past the MP.
• Acorn…I’m sure there’s loads more I could think of but the last important difference that comes to mind is that Pokertrackers Gametime + can be used at cash tables and not sngs. I’ve only had it working ( GT +) a couple of months and wouldn’t play without it.
• CC…Beyond table selection, be cognizant of table makeup after you sit. When you suddenly have half the table made up of 12/8′ers and other rock/eagle types, hit the road. Know what you’ll do if the other guy does something after you do something.
• Don…Table Selection- this applies mostly to Stars. There are usually 20+ games to choose from and you have plenty of players, no matter the level, that six and eight table games. I make sure that there is no more that two of these multi-tablers at that table and they both are on your right. They are so very predictable that if they fire and you have nothing fold, but if you hit sets, straights, or flushes against them they will pay with there whole stack as they only play their cards and not any of their opponents.

What should a player’s bankroll be at each of the different NL limits ($25, $50, $100, etc.) ?

• JJ…As for bankroll, it’s hard to say. I would say 20Xbuyin to start and increase it as you go up. $500 for $25NL
  $1000 for $50 NL
  $2500 for $100 NL
  $6000 for $200 NL – I’m just pulling some numbers off the top of my head for this……in reality, it’s playing at a comfortable level where you are not going to be worried every hand.
• Acorn…Having a sufficent bankroll is crucial to being able to shrug off the bad beats. I know jjok already said that but it’s so important it’s worth repeating.
• CC…Most folks in NLHE subscribe to 30-100x of the buy-in for bankroll management, depending on your risk tolerance.
• Don…Don’t play at levels beyond your comfort zone. We all get stacked when it happens don’t let it bother you and it shouldn’t if you are playing within your means.

Thanks again for all the great feedback, be sure to read their upcoming book – Mastering NLHE Cash Games In the Land of Set Farmers & Beaver Trappers.

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